Our new evening menu at La Maison d'Olivier Leflaive

Since the beginning of the year our evening tapas menu has changed its name to Les Petits Plats d’Olivier. Olivier Leflaive talks to our chef Claudine Tixier to find out what’s up.
OL: The name of the menu has changed why?
CT: The dishes we were offering before were not really traditional Spanish tapas and we wanted something that corresponded with the style of the restaurant and the ambience of the menu.
OL: So what are the new dishes?
CT: We start with a bruschetta and then a choice of soups; parsnip, pumpkin or zucchini. To follow we have gougères which are a speciality of Burgundy. The pasty puff is made with comté cheese and I then stuff it with curried vegetables. There is also a tartare of salmon with a fresh guacamole. Afterwards you have a choice of the following dishes. Cod with orange zest on a bed of spinach, black pudding with apple, gingerbread and chorizo crisp or spring rolls stuffed with duck confit. The desserts include French toast with roasted pineapple and rice pudding with a milk caramel.
OL: How did you come to choose the current menu?
CT: I chose regional specialties such as gougères and black pudding as well other ingredients from the rest of France. I also tried to change the regional dishes, to move away from coq au vin and snails. All the dishes have been updated by me.
OL: Will the menu change in the near future?
CT: Yes I think it will change three times this year, once after Easter and once for the summer when I will serve lighter and fresher dishes. All my ingredients are fresh and the menu changes with the seasonal produce available.
OL: What else is on offer?
CT: I can provide buffets for groups and seminars and we cater for those with gluten and lactose intolerances as well.

Rachel Freitas, our evening sommelier, recommends the following wines with Les Petits Plats d’Olivier :
Buschetta, with parma Ham, Confit of tomatoes and parmesan
Bourgogne Sétilles 2009
Bourgogne Aligoté 2009
***
Cream of Vegetables
Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2007
***
Salmon tartare and Guacamole
Saint Romain Sous le Château / Auxey Duresses
OR
Cheese Puff with baby vagetables and Curry
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Saint-Marc 2007
***
Cod with orange on a bed of fresh spinach
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain 2007
OR
Nem of duck with an orange flavoured red wine sauce
Volnay 1er Cur Santenots 2002
OR
Black Pudding with apple, Ginger bread
Volnay 2003 / Pernand–Vergelesse 1er Cru Fichot 2008
***
Seep’s milk cheese with fig jam
Saint Aubin 1er Cru Remilly ou Monthelie 1er Cru 2004
***
Rice pudding with a toffee sauce
French style bread and butter pudding with roaster pineapple
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2007
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2006

Franck Grux on the 2010 vintage

The autumn of 2009 was fairly typical until December when the temperatures started to fall gradually to -20°C throughout the Côte. The freezing temperatures lasted throughout January and February of 2010 with snow and rain. The ambient humidity that is associated with cold temperatures meant that there was severe frost damage in the rootstock mainly in the vines situated at the base of the slopes. The lack of sunlight continued until the end of March making the winter very long! Budburst started around 15th April with the sunny weather and the vines started to grow strongly until the first days of May when the weather suddenly went cold and remained so until the end of the month. At the start of June temperatures were much warmer, even above normal for the season and the vines flowered. With the first vines flowering around the 10th June there was then another cool period which disrupted the development in the later flowering areas causing shatter. Production in certain of eth better appellations was bound to be affected. July was variable with sunny periods and cloudy days. August saw less sunshine than normal a certainty that there would be no early harvest. It was September that would decide the quality of the vintage as was the case in 2008.
From the 23rd of August there was a return to the good weather that is more the norm until the 12th September when there were localized storms and not terribly welcome rain. The good weather and a north-east wind forced the decision to wait no longer and start the harvest in mid September. Start of the harvest 15 September and finish 2nd October.
Overall impressions of quality for the 2010 vintage
Pinot noir on the Côte de Beaune
The vines were closely monitored as they matured; localized storms increased the chance of botrytis and each individual vine reacted differently. Sorting lead to about 10% of the grapes being rejected though this below what we would normally expect and yields were around 30 to 35 hl/ha. We chose to vinify without a great deal of extraction to keep the freshness and fruitiness, the tannins are light and the fruit is ever present. In comparison to other vintages 2010 will be more charming than 2008 and perhaps more lively than 2009. Overall for 2010 expect well crafted pinot-noir with particular mention to the Volnays and Pommards.
Chardonnays on the Côte de Beaune
Taking into account the lower yields, owing to millderange, we decided to start the harvest early and take stock of each terroir. Quite high potential acidity levels, notably malic acid, at the start of the harvest were not a real worry but we shall see when we taste after malo-lactic fermentation. The good health of the grapes has allowed us to make both fresh and fat wines. In my opinion the 2010 whites will be very much defined by their terroir, tighter than 2009 but easier than 2008. The only real downside was the yield as it was between 20 and 50% lower than 2009.
Chardonnays of the Chablis region.
Following the precedent set on the Côte de Beaune we started harvesting relatively early in Chablis. Late rains meant that we suffered quite a bit of botrytis and seemed prudent to harvest the grapes that remained in good health in the hope that the freshness and minerality could be retained.
I think we can hope for a very good vintage. The smaller yields will allow us to make full, racy wines with plenty of length. With 2008 and 2009 this vintage will mark a wonderful trilogy.
Franck GRUX

Olivier Leflaive on the Domaine’s Vines

Since the 2010 vintage La Domaine d’Oliver Leflaive’ has grown by a few hectares. Most importantly the grand crus Chevalier and Batard- Montrachet; the 1er crus Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles and Les Folatières as well as Meursault Blagny. These vines have been returned to us after their rental period with our family winery, Domaine Leflaive, expired last year.
We have also bought a few ouvrées of Puligny-Montrachet village. We are now the proud owners of two rare 1er cru appellations in Chassagne-Montrachet, Abbaye de Morgeot and Clos St Marc as well as Meursault 1er cru Poruzot and all our village and regional appellations. In allthe domaine now owns over 15 hectares of vines and that is, perhaps, just the beginning…….
Olivier Leflaive