A year in the Vines

This year we are going to follow the evolution of the vines from the perspective of our resident photographer Anaïs Girard.














At present our tâcherons (vineyard pieceworkers) are out in the cold and the snow pruning the vines in the Guyot style leaving just the baguette and courson (two bud spur) for next year's growth.

The next stage is to burn all of this year's years cuttings in the large wheelbarrows called brouettes.  

Some pictures from the harvest.

Some pictures from this year's harvest in Puligny Montrachet.

As Olivier always  says 'Good fruit, Good wine.'

Backbreaking work but deeply satisfying!

The row doesn't really go on forever it just seems that way.

Up to 80 kilos on your back.

Hats are the must have accessory this season.

Harvest Time for Domaine Olivier Leflaive

Well the moment has arrived.  The harvest date has been set for the 27^th august and with a week to go the winery is working flat out to bottle the last of the 2009 vintage and prepare for the onslaught of the next month.  This season has already seen some interesting curve balls with a very early start for the buds owing to an unseasonably warm spring.  We all thought that we were heading for another 2003 or 1976 until the weather broke in the merry month of July this year.  Since then we have had promising stretches of sunshine but, on the whole, colder than average temperatures for this time of year.  From a predicted harvest date of the 16^th august we have in fact pushed back several days because of the atypical conditions.  We are hoping for a month of dry conditions now mainly because it will provide us with a great harvest but also because we are fed up with the rain!  Come and discover our wine tours in the vineyards and the winery every morning from 10h00 and follow them up with a wine tasting lunch like no other.

Simon Aplin

Wine tasting for our negociant suppliers

Last Wednesday June 15th we organised our annual wine tasting reserved exclusively for the vignerons who supply grapes for our winery.

It is the occasion to see the vintage as a whole, this time 2009, in two colours, to exchange ideas and to define it. The wines are served by the winery personnel who enjoy meeting the various vignerons.
No fancy snacks, no great lunch just plain bread and a few gougeres. 130 people came to visit us between 17h00 and 20h00 each having finished their working day in the cellar or vines. Most of these people are bottling at present and sell to both the national and export markets. These conversations, friendly, frank exchanges, are well worth while because when we chat together as winemakers we are also in contact with those who buy and drink our wines.
In buying a vignerons harvest and making a wine with it we contribute to the overall public knowledge of that terroir.
Tasting from Montagny-les-Buxy to Corton-Charlemagne via St Aubin, Puligny and Chassagne allows a better understanding of the chardonnay varietal. Meanwhile tasting from Santanay to Aloxe-Corton via Volnay and Pommard gives a more complete picture of pinot–noir.
Some of our visitors have told us that in tasting our range of wines it allows them see their own in a different light. We have been organizing this event every year since the creation of our winery in 1985 and we shall continue to do so.
Franck GRUX, Technical Director

The sun doesn’t always shine on Puligny Montrachet…

Just like you, I‘m sure, sometimes I want to just stay underneath the duvet and make time stand still! Finally the rain that we have been waiting for to water our vines has arrived. The morale of the vignerons has been raised but for a June day we could expect a little better… a bike ride in the vines, a drink on the terrace, exploring the lanes in the neighbouring villages, walking in Beaune and finding oneself lost in its backstreets. All those things that you, visitors from around the world, come here to do. But your stay need not be ruined. Our optimism and conviviality will give you the ray of sunshine you have come to find. A blind tasting, games by the fire, a wine quiz, a good meal chatting with the table next to you, whose occupants will certainly become friends by the end of the day (the wine will make sure of that!), an artist’s exhibition, snail hunting in the vines, a massage in our high tech chair , a film of the vines, teatime pouring over the latest wine magazines, a spa treatment in either Beaune or Chalon… We can show you so many ways to fall in love with Burgundy. After all when the weather is bad at home what do you do?
Julie Leflaive

General Manager of La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive

Nathalie Harvey exhibition

Julie Leflaive and Nathalie Harvey are very glad to invite you to the opening of Nathalie Harvey's exhibition Saturday 18th of June between 17 h 00 and 20h 00 at La Maison d'Olivier Leflaive.

The exhibition will run from the 18th of June to the 10th of Septmber.
Nathalie Harvey was born in Saint-Paul-de-Vence in 1975 to a French mother and an American father. Nathalie’s work as already been shown in exhibition in Berlin, Marakesh, Seattle, Brussels, Saint-Paul-De-Vence, Bologna and Paris.
“Paint is above all a toy and my workshop a magnificent adventure playgroud where accidents always prove positive and inspirational.
The feminine has always been my inspiration.

2010 A Dream Vintage?

When a vintage gives us such good body, an excellent acidity and a true expression of terroir, we, the winemakers, should have all the necessary qualities to produce wines of the highest quality.  2009 was a year which gave us a lot of rich, heavy fruit with very little acidity. The weather in 2010 was unusual and made a marked difference, particularly in the premier and grand crus.
June’s colder temperatures didn’t allow the flowering of the vines to happen as normal. Coulure (where the flowers shatter and the fruit is therefore not properly pollinated) and millerandage (the non-development of the fruit) gave us a reduced harvest most notably in the premier and grand crus (these were more advanced in their vegetative cycle) and a remarkable concentration of flavour.
Following this a cold summer with little sunshine did nothing to help the harvest. It was only in September that the return of the sun turned around the vintage and gave us what we have in the cellar today.
The only uncertainty with the aging, which has moved very quickly (1 to 1.5% vol/week) is the level of acidity, which is not dropping very quickly. If there is enough sunshine with a cold north-east wind the colder temperatures do not allow the breaking down of the malik and tartric acids in the grapes.
From the tests performed on the grapes we saw a large discrepancy between the parcelles. The grands vins, which had been badly affected by millerandage, were mature well before the village and regional areas which meant starting the harvest on the 15th September.
The Result:  The whites are full, classy and have a good acidity which will give them life and length. The reds are fruity with supple tannins, elegant but with the tone of the vintage.
So, dear reader, if you are in doubt as to the quality of 2010, having read the opinion of a winemaker who loves this style of wine, come to Burgundy and discover our winery and our wines!
Philippe GRILLET

The sayings of Spring

2011 harvest, will it be earlier than 2003 or 1976? Comments are rife among those who write everything in little notebooks all year round and those who remember what their grandfathers told them of previous vintages. One thing is certain; we're early by about two weeks compared to the cycle of recent years.

The old adage "early Easter, late Easter ... buds at Easter” this year it’s the case.

A simple stroll through the vines at this time and we understand that the most prestigious vineyards are already showing their grapes, with 6-7 leaves unfolded, while the regional appellation Bourgogne has been rudely awakened from its winter lethargy. It is often said that the sun shines for everybody; agreed that a sunny month of April is very rare, but at the same time, there will always be glaring differences between the richest and most modest parcels.

In April: N’er cast a cloud ‘til May is out! You can’t imagine being out with a big wool sweater on your back in this heat? Another famous saying collapses.             

In May, do what you like! Like it or not, work in the vineyard will not wait. It is not worth considering going on holiday or thinking about enjoying the May bank holidays.             

May is the month full of dangers, let me explain:           

The winegrowers are scrupulous in the vineyard; bent over to remove the shoots in order to limit the production of grapes and avoid excess yield unworthy of Grand Crus appellation. After thinning the vines 7-10 bunches per vine, according to appellation, remain to ripen until the harvest. 

The risk of frost still exists this month, with the period of the "Ice Saints", the 11, 12 and 13^th of May (respectively Saint Mamert, Saint Pancras and Saint Servais). Here the winemaker can lose everything overnight to a bad frost.

Last saying to think about: Do not count your chickens before they hatch!

2011 has just begun, wait a few weeks and we'll see ...              

Franck GRUX

New offer at La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive

For a gourmet gateway  we propose, in partenership with the restaurant Le Montrachet, a stay which includes : a wine tasting of 5 wines from Olivier Leflaive as an aperitif ; a gourmet dinner at Le Montrachet (wines included) ; one night at La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive 4**** Hotel ; breakfast and visits of our vineyards and cellars the following morning.

The rate is 460 € low season and 520 € high season, per couple.

We have designed this package to showcase the warmth and authenticity of Burgundy including discovering Olivier Leflaive’s wines and having dinner at one of the best restaurants in Burgundy.

http://www.maison-olivierleflaive.fr/maison-olivier-leflaive/fr/maison.html

03 80 21 95 27
E-mail : maison@olivier-leflaive.com

Book your stay with Julie Leflaive or with Fabrizio...

Our Support to Japan

For many years now our wines have been present on the Japanese market, a great showcase for Burgundy wines. Tokyo has the most 3* Michelin restaurants in the world along with its fishmarket which provides the best fish destined for the finest dining tables. Following the recent dramatic events last month our thoughts turned immediately to our Japanese friends and we had had talks as to how best to help in these difficult times.
We are helping in our own small way by supporting the following projects put in place with our fellow Burgundians.
A collection of clothing, organized by the Japanese restaurant, Bissoh, in Beaune.
We are offering several magnums of Pommard 2007 for auction to support ‘Solidarité Japon’ who in turn support the Japanese Red Cross through the embassy.
As well as this our importer in Japan ENOTECA is organizing an auction of wines to which we are donating the following
Volnay 1erCru Santenot 2000
Chablis 1erCru Cote de Léchet 2004
Chassagne-Montrachet 1erCru Grande Montagne 2006
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2006
Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru 2006
It is our conviction that the best way to help is to move forward. Japan has once again offered us a valuable lesson in life with its reaction to this crisis.
I have been particularly touched by these events as 2 weeks prior to the tsunami I spent a week on a promotional tour of this country which holds a special place in my heart.
We wish you all the very best
Jean Soubeyrand

Our new evening menu at La Maison d'Olivier Leflaive

Since the beginning of the year our evening tapas menu has changed its name to Les Petits Plats d’Olivier. Olivier Leflaive talks to our chef Claudine Tixier to find out what’s up.
OL: The name of the menu has changed why?
CT: The dishes we were offering before were not really traditional Spanish tapas and we wanted something that corresponded with the style of the restaurant and the ambience of the menu.
OL: So what are the new dishes?
CT: We start with a bruschetta and then a choice of soups; parsnip, pumpkin or zucchini. To follow we have gougères which are a speciality of Burgundy. The pasty puff is made with comté cheese and I then stuff it with curried vegetables. There is also a tartare of salmon with a fresh guacamole. Afterwards you have a choice of the following dishes. Cod with orange zest on a bed of spinach, black pudding with apple, gingerbread and chorizo crisp or spring rolls stuffed with duck confit. The desserts include French toast with roasted pineapple and rice pudding with a milk caramel.
OL: How did you come to choose the current menu?
CT: I chose regional specialties such as gougères and black pudding as well other ingredients from the rest of France. I also tried to change the regional dishes, to move away from coq au vin and snails. All the dishes have been updated by me.
OL: Will the menu change in the near future?
CT: Yes I think it will change three times this year, once after Easter and once for the summer when I will serve lighter and fresher dishes. All my ingredients are fresh and the menu changes with the seasonal produce available.
OL: What else is on offer?
CT: I can provide buffets for groups and seminars and we cater for those with gluten and lactose intolerances as well.

Rachel Freitas, our evening sommelier, recommends the following wines with Les Petits Plats d’Olivier :
Buschetta, with parma Ham, Confit of tomatoes and parmesan
Bourgogne Sétilles 2009
Bourgogne Aligoté 2009
***
Cream of Vegetables
Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2007
***
Salmon tartare and Guacamole
Saint Romain Sous le Château / Auxey Duresses
OR
Cheese Puff with baby vagetables and Curry
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Saint-Marc 2007
***
Cod with orange on a bed of fresh spinach
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain 2007
OR
Nem of duck with an orange flavoured red wine sauce
Volnay 1er Cur Santenots 2002
OR
Black Pudding with apple, Ginger bread
Volnay 2003 / Pernand–Vergelesse 1er Cru Fichot 2008
***
Seep’s milk cheese with fig jam
Saint Aubin 1er Cru Remilly ou Monthelie 1er Cru 2004
***
Rice pudding with a toffee sauce
French style bread and butter pudding with roaster pineapple
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2007
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2006

Franck Grux on the 2010 vintage

The autumn of 2009 was fairly typical until December when the temperatures started to fall gradually to -20°C throughout the Côte. The freezing temperatures lasted throughout January and February of 2010 with snow and rain. The ambient humidity that is associated with cold temperatures meant that there was severe frost damage in the rootstock mainly in the vines situated at the base of the slopes. The lack of sunlight continued until the end of March making the winter very long! Budburst started around 15th April with the sunny weather and the vines started to grow strongly until the first days of May when the weather suddenly went cold and remained so until the end of the month. At the start of June temperatures were much warmer, even above normal for the season and the vines flowered. With the first vines flowering around the 10th June there was then another cool period which disrupted the development in the later flowering areas causing shatter. Production in certain of eth better appellations was bound to be affected. July was variable with sunny periods and cloudy days. August saw less sunshine than normal a certainty that there would be no early harvest. It was September that would decide the quality of the vintage as was the case in 2008.
From the 23rd of August there was a return to the good weather that is more the norm until the 12th September when there were localized storms and not terribly welcome rain. The good weather and a north-east wind forced the decision to wait no longer and start the harvest in mid September. Start of the harvest 15 September and finish 2nd October.
Overall impressions of quality for the 2010 vintage
Pinot noir on the Côte de Beaune
The vines were closely monitored as they matured; localized storms increased the chance of botrytis and each individual vine reacted differently. Sorting lead to about 10% of the grapes being rejected though this below what we would normally expect and yields were around 30 to 35 hl/ha. We chose to vinify without a great deal of extraction to keep the freshness and fruitiness, the tannins are light and the fruit is ever present. In comparison to other vintages 2010 will be more charming than 2008 and perhaps more lively than 2009. Overall for 2010 expect well crafted pinot-noir with particular mention to the Volnays and Pommards.
Chardonnays on the Côte de Beaune
Taking into account the lower yields, owing to millderange, we decided to start the harvest early and take stock of each terroir. Quite high potential acidity levels, notably malic acid, at the start of the harvest were not a real worry but we shall see when we taste after malo-lactic fermentation. The good health of the grapes has allowed us to make both fresh and fat wines. In my opinion the 2010 whites will be very much defined by their terroir, tighter than 2009 but easier than 2008. The only real downside was the yield as it was between 20 and 50% lower than 2009.
Chardonnays of the Chablis region.
Following the precedent set on the Côte de Beaune we started harvesting relatively early in Chablis. Late rains meant that we suffered quite a bit of botrytis and seemed prudent to harvest the grapes that remained in good health in the hope that the freshness and minerality could be retained.
I think we can hope for a very good vintage. The smaller yields will allow us to make full, racy wines with plenty of length. With 2008 and 2009 this vintage will mark a wonderful trilogy.
Franck GRUX

Olivier Leflaive on the Domaine’s Vines

Since the 2010 vintage La Domaine d’Oliver Leflaive’ has grown by a few hectares. Most importantly the grand crus Chevalier and Batard- Montrachet; the 1er crus Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles and Les Folatières as well as Meursault Blagny. These vines have been returned to us after their rental period with our family winery, Domaine Leflaive, expired last year.
We have also bought a few ouvrées of Puligny-Montrachet village. We are now the proud owners of two rare 1er cru appellations in Chassagne-Montrachet, Abbaye de Morgeot and Clos St Marc as well as Meursault 1er cru Poruzot and all our village and regional appellations. In allthe domaine now owns over 15 hectares of vines and that is, perhaps, just the beginning…….
Olivier Leflaive

Uma palavra por os nossos amigos Brasileiros e Portugueses

Uma palavra por os nossos amigos Brasileiros e Portugueses
Bom dia a todos nossos clientes Brasileiros e Portugueses este ano nos temos o prazer de vos receber dentro de nosso hotel e dentro da nossa sala de prova a Puligny- Montrachet en Borgonha.
Venhen provar nossas melhores apelaçions, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain e Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot ou seja nossos melhores vinhos que temos Corton-Charlemagne e Batard-Monrachet Grand Cru.
Chamai-nos aò telefone : 00 33 380 21 95 27ou contactainos a maison@olivier-leflaive.com para reservar vosso lugar.
Ate breve
A equipa da casa do senhor Olivier Leflaive

A word from Julie Leflaive, General Manager at La Table d’Olivier Leflaive

La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive reopened last week and as with every year we have implemented some changes in order to keep up with the ever changing demands of you, the wine tourist. Having won the National Wine Tourism Award in 2009 we are changing our tasting formula ever so slightly to include our renown Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2007 and Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne 2006. The menu for our tasting lunch stays much the same with the evening meal ‘Les Petits Plats d’Olivier’ changing according to the seasons. The advantage of staying the night and enjoying this lighter meal with an interesting wine is only too evident. Should you wish to book any of our tours, tasting menus or rooms please click here and send your request. I wish you a very happy and prosperous 2011 and look forward to seeing you here in Puligny-Montrachet.
Julie Leflaive